If not apparent to the naked eye, the disappearance of Clark County's agricultural lands in lieu of advancing subdivisions and strip malls is well documented and a sore subject for local farmers and agriculture advocates.
A 2005 economic study conducted by the county concluded that professional farming in Clark County is in permanent decline, due to the fact that demand for locally grown food is "not sufficient to reverse the long-standing trends of declining farm activity."
Harder to spot and possibly harder to imagine are the more successful agricultural undertakings going on in and around the county – wineries. There are now upward of 11 wineries operating in Southwest Washington with at least two more set to open before winter.
"The climate presents an opportunity to cultivate a wide range of grape varieties, including some that have not been developed in significant volume elsewhere in the state, such as pinot noir," said Robin Pollard, executive director of the Washington Wine Commission.
Few know this landscape more intimately than Carl English, owner of English Estate Winery in Fishers Landing. English Estate is the area's oldest operating winery. But before grapevines covered this 16-acre family farm, it served many roles, including its previous undertaking as a dairy farm that closed in the early 1970s.
In 1977, English saw the property going the way he'd seen many local farms vanish. So with preserving the estate in mind, he began researching viable crops. He saw an opportunity in grape production after recognizing the ideal conditions the region provided in both climate and terroir.
"I was looking for an agricultural product that could produce a high enough value commodity that would also stand up to development, because that's the name of the game in Clark County," English said. "How many wineries are established is going to be determined by the price of our land and future development."
This sentiment is shared by Michele Bloomquist, owner of the forthcoming Heisen House Vineyards in Heisson. Bloomquist said she's been to a number of land use meetings at which it's common to hear farmers lament about the financial instability of farming in Clark County and the bleak future it poses to their next generation.
This predicament makes million-dollar offers from developers even more attractive, but Bloomquist and other wine-makers view grapes as a solution to sustain local agriculture.
"I truly believe that wine might be the crop that saves agriculture in Clark County," Bloomquist said. "I hope landowners will consider growing grapes, because grapes can be grown in a lot more places than people think and the market is strong locally."
In the last 12 months, more than one winery opened per week in Washington, according to the Liquor Control Board.
"I believe the trend was driven by expanding recognition for the amazing quality and value we produce," Pollard said. "Demand for Washington wines is rising, and that inspires people to join our ranks."
The profit potential probably doesn't leave a bitter taste on anyone's palate either.
This, paired with ideal natural conditions, are fueling Washington's more than $3 billion wine industry. One strength Clark County wineries and vineyards have established is a culture that cultivates success through collective approaches.
They work together to advance the local wine scene, lend input to each other's production methods and have established a strategic, nonprofit alliance called the Southwest Washington Wineries Association.
Bloomquist serves testament to this collaborative model. She began her journey into the vines through a discussion with Walt Houser, owner of Ridgefield-based Bethany Vineyards.
After planting her first cuttings, Bloomquist began visiting wineries across the county, including English Estates, for advice. She was surprised at the camaraderie initially, but said it makes perfect sense.
"We view ourselves as a unit and don't compete with each other," Bloomquist said. "The more wineries there are locally, the better for our scene as a whole."
Saving land, one grape at a time
Being a permaculture crop that requires little to no irrigation here, grapes are economically sensible and environmentally sound.
They represent a preserved, value-added product that allows growers to eliminate the middle man through direct retail sales to producers or consumers. These characteristics contribute to the grapes' high potential for profit per acre.
A thriving wine industry would be a boon for Clark County's wine scene and its related industries. But the benefits won't be reaped without support from the county and a long-term vision toward preserving agricultural space for such pursuits.
Once land is developed it's unfit for agriculture forever, but preserved, it can become worth millions of dollars per acre, as is happening in the Willamette Valley, Bloomquist noted.
"Housing might bring immediate revenue, but it's actually finite revenue, especially versus something that has a perpetual income, such as wine," Bloomquist said.
